Post by oldtimer52 on Feb 15, 2020 1:37:37 GMT -5
To make this write-up as small as possible, I am making it in 4 sections.
Step 1: Making the container.
Step 2: Prepping the model.
Step 3: Pouring the bottom half of the mold.
Step 4: Pouring the top half of the mold.
Trying to do it one file would be extremely long and very boring, so
breaking it up will give the option of questions being asked at each
step.
To begin. The following list is the supplies that I used to complete
this project.
1 sheet of .040 styrene plastic
1 angle styrene .25 ( 1/4 inch)
Synthetic clay (supplied in kit)
Silicone base (supplied in kit)
Catalyst (supplied in kit)
Measuring cups (supplied in kit)
Stir sticks (supplied in kit) they give you tongue depressors
but I used popcycle sticks. introduce less air into mixture
Paint masking tape
Styrene solvent
Various tools for marking, cutting and sanding styrene
Essentially, I followed the instructions provided by Alumilite as to making
the mold. I adapted it to work best for me. I started by figuring the
measurement of the part that I was using to make the mold. In this case
an Overton passenger frame. First I needed to find the Length, Width and
Height of the part. I layed the frame on a piece of white paper and drew
lines along each side and the ends. Then I used a ruler to make these
lines into a box shape. I measured the box, length and width, and noted
these on the diagram. Next, right beneath the previous diagram, I set
the frame on it's side and marked the top of the frame and the bottom of
the steps. Again I made a box from these marks and measured the height of
the box and noted it.
The length of the part was 4 31/32", the width was 1 7/32" and the height
was 5/16". To make it easier to work with, I converted the 5/16" to
10/32" to make them the same. Now, according to the insdtructions, I
need to leave at least a 1/4" border around the part to allow for a solid
wall around the part to make the mold sturdy. I allowed 1/2" because this
mold was to be flexible and would allow more strngth to the walls.
After adding the 1/2", the figures became:
Length: 4 31/32" + 1" = 5 31/32"
Width: 1 7/32" + 1" = 2 7/32"
Height: 10/32" = 1" = 1 10/32"
Now we can proceed to make the components of the mold box (container).
We will need 2 pieces of sheet styrene that are 5 31/32" long by 1 10/32"
high for the sides. 2 pieces of 2 7/32" by 1 10/32" high. The next piece to
be cut is the bottom plate. This part will be cut to 2 7/32" wide but the
length will be different from the side as the assembled box will have the
2 ends added to the length. The .040 styrene is 3/64" thick so double that
is 6/64" or 3/32" to be added to the length. The base needs to be
2 7/32" wide by 5 1/16" long. The angle styrene needs to be 1 23/64" long.
This allows for the sides to be sitting on top of the base and the angles
to overlap the base. The last piece of styrene to cut is the top piece.
This needs to be 6" by 3". This will be used to cover the mold after the
silicone ha been poured to make the bottom of the mold level and prevent
the problems I encountered with an uneven mold.
Next we need to attach the angles to the end pieces. I used 400 grit sand
paper to square off all of the pieces and to knock down the ridge created
by cutting the styrene. I also sanded the inside of the angles. This
prepared the surfaces for bonding by the solvent. Then I attached the
angles to the edges of the end pieces by appplying solvent to the angle and
the edge of the end pieces and holding them together to give the solvent
time to adhere the pieces together. After the pieces began to stick, I
repeated the process with the other end. After both end pieces were
competed, I left them for a couple of hours to completely dry.
Now we need to prepare the clay for the mold box. I used two 1/2" boards
a little longer than the mold box and laid them out about 3" apart and
secured them to the workbence. Then I cut a piece of wased paper to
fit in between them with an overlap to cover the boards. Then I placed
a piece of clay the length and width of the mold box in the middle
of the form. Then I placed a another piece of waxed paper on top of the
clay to prevent it from sticking to the rolling pin that I used to
level out the clay. Once the clay was leveled out, I removed the top
piece of waxed paper and cut the clay to fit in the mold box. First I
assembled the base, ends and one side to the mold box and secured it with
painters tape. Then I placed the clay inside and put the last side piece
in place and secured it with painters tape.
Now we're ready to start Part 2, preparing the part to be used to be
replicated.
Step 1: Making the container.
Step 2: Prepping the model.
Step 3: Pouring the bottom half of the mold.
Step 4: Pouring the top half of the mold.
Trying to do it one file would be extremely long and very boring, so
breaking it up will give the option of questions being asked at each
step.
To begin. The following list is the supplies that I used to complete
this project.
1 sheet of .040 styrene plastic
1 angle styrene .25 ( 1/4 inch)
Synthetic clay (supplied in kit)
Silicone base (supplied in kit)
Catalyst (supplied in kit)
Measuring cups (supplied in kit)
Stir sticks (supplied in kit) they give you tongue depressors
but I used popcycle sticks. introduce less air into mixture
Paint masking tape
Styrene solvent
Various tools for marking, cutting and sanding styrene
Essentially, I followed the instructions provided by Alumilite as to making
the mold. I adapted it to work best for me. I started by figuring the
measurement of the part that I was using to make the mold. In this case
an Overton passenger frame. First I needed to find the Length, Width and
Height of the part. I layed the frame on a piece of white paper and drew
lines along each side and the ends. Then I used a ruler to make these
lines into a box shape. I measured the box, length and width, and noted
these on the diagram. Next, right beneath the previous diagram, I set
the frame on it's side and marked the top of the frame and the bottom of
the steps. Again I made a box from these marks and measured the height of
the box and noted it.
The length of the part was 4 31/32", the width was 1 7/32" and the height
was 5/16". To make it easier to work with, I converted the 5/16" to
10/32" to make them the same. Now, according to the insdtructions, I
need to leave at least a 1/4" border around the part to allow for a solid
wall around the part to make the mold sturdy. I allowed 1/2" because this
mold was to be flexible and would allow more strngth to the walls.
After adding the 1/2", the figures became:
Length: 4 31/32" + 1" = 5 31/32"
Width: 1 7/32" + 1" = 2 7/32"
Height: 10/32" = 1" = 1 10/32"
Now we can proceed to make the components of the mold box (container).
We will need 2 pieces of sheet styrene that are 5 31/32" long by 1 10/32"
high for the sides. 2 pieces of 2 7/32" by 1 10/32" high. The next piece to
be cut is the bottom plate. This part will be cut to 2 7/32" wide but the
length will be different from the side as the assembled box will have the
2 ends added to the length. The .040 styrene is 3/64" thick so double that
is 6/64" or 3/32" to be added to the length. The base needs to be
2 7/32" wide by 5 1/16" long. The angle styrene needs to be 1 23/64" long.
This allows for the sides to be sitting on top of the base and the angles
to overlap the base. The last piece of styrene to cut is the top piece.
This needs to be 6" by 3". This will be used to cover the mold after the
silicone ha been poured to make the bottom of the mold level and prevent
the problems I encountered with an uneven mold.
Next we need to attach the angles to the end pieces. I used 400 grit sand
paper to square off all of the pieces and to knock down the ridge created
by cutting the styrene. I also sanded the inside of the angles. This
prepared the surfaces for bonding by the solvent. Then I attached the
angles to the edges of the end pieces by appplying solvent to the angle and
the edge of the end pieces and holding them together to give the solvent
time to adhere the pieces together. After the pieces began to stick, I
repeated the process with the other end. After both end pieces were
competed, I left them for a couple of hours to completely dry.
Now we need to prepare the clay for the mold box. I used two 1/2" boards
a little longer than the mold box and laid them out about 3" apart and
secured them to the workbence. Then I cut a piece of wased paper to
fit in between them with an overlap to cover the boards. Then I placed
a piece of clay the length and width of the mold box in the middle
of the form. Then I placed a another piece of waxed paper on top of the
clay to prevent it from sticking to the rolling pin that I used to
level out the clay. Once the clay was leveled out, I removed the top
piece of waxed paper and cut the clay to fit in the mold box. First I
assembled the base, ends and one side to the mold box and secured it with
painters tape. Then I placed the clay inside and put the last side piece
in place and secured it with painters tape.
Now we're ready to start Part 2, preparing the part to be used to be
replicated.
