MDC Box Cab / Climax / Box Cab Track Cleaner Drive Issues
Feb 24, 2019 21:46:10 GMT -5
Sandy likes this
Post by mph on Feb 24, 2019 21:46:10 GMT -5
This thread is a restart to a conversation that began in the Lewisville Train Show thread. As the thread changed from what took place to a discussion about these drives and virtues and frailties, I thought a separate thread to explore this topic was needed.
Background: The MDC Box Cab and Climax locomotives have always been a favorite of mine simply because they were different from many other locomotives when I was getting into the hobby decades ago. While I lusted after them I didn't acquire one until about a year ago with a purchase of a used Climax at a LHS. It ran beautifully in the store and for a few outings on my layout, but it soon developed a slipping problem. Being unfamiliar with the drive train and having other projects to work on, it sat on the shelf.
Recently, I ran across two assembled Box Cabs at train shows and discovered that I somehow purchased an unassembled box cab that I forgot about. Since my post about the latest acquisition at the Lewisville show and the conversation about the mechanics of these units, I spent several hours this week working on my units which is the starting point of the conversation.
Before delving into my findings, let me state that I don't consider the noise of these units an issue. The only time I have an issue with locomotive noise is bearing squeal from poor lubrication.
My experience so far is that there are two plastic parts prone to failure: the drive gear attached to the motor and the universal driver that connects to the jack shafts that drives the axles on either truck. In the photo, there are two universal drives show, one laying loose on the mat and the other connected to the share on the truck.
It doesn't take much to notice that the crack in the universal driver laying on the mat, and this one is from the unassembled/unused kit. The problem with the drive gear is cracking as well.
I've superglued and clamped these parts with no success. After a few minutes of successful running, the glue fails, slipping occurs followed by complete failure. My next step will be a different adhesive.
In my other post, I copied the following from the Northwest Short Line website:
MDC CLIMAX/BOXCAB DIESEL
The noisy gearing on these locomotives is not economically
upgradeable. See NWSL Stanton Drive #39279-4 for the
Boxcab/Climax or #39213-4 for the MDC RS-3.
Unfortunately, I did not explain my reason for this, but it wasn't in reference to the noise. My reason was that if Northwest Short Line was not making parts for this, there is likely not an alternate source for parts. From what I've witnessed with cracked parts in an unassembled kit, buying donor units will result in a larger accumulation of non-running (but gorgeous) locomotives. Actually, this is not quite accurate. My options are either find a successful method of repairing the cracks or installing Bachmann 44-ton chassis.
In the Lewisville thread, I mentioned that I was planning on replacing the chassis with the Bachmann chassis, but after spending some time with these units I am fighting to get them running with the native drive trains. Other than cost, the reason is performance. I don't have a large layout. These units will run at 5 volts and pull 3 non-modified Tyco cars up a 3% grade without a noticeable slowing. It takes about 4 minutes to complete the loop. For comparison, a Bachmann Spectrum will also run at 5 volts, handles the grade ok, but completes the loop in one and a half minutes.
More to come when progress is made. Comments and suggestions are welcome.
Background: The MDC Box Cab and Climax locomotives have always been a favorite of mine simply because they were different from many other locomotives when I was getting into the hobby decades ago. While I lusted after them I didn't acquire one until about a year ago with a purchase of a used Climax at a LHS. It ran beautifully in the store and for a few outings on my layout, but it soon developed a slipping problem. Being unfamiliar with the drive train and having other projects to work on, it sat on the shelf.
Recently, I ran across two assembled Box Cabs at train shows and discovered that I somehow purchased an unassembled box cab that I forgot about. Since my post about the latest acquisition at the Lewisville show and the conversation about the mechanics of these units, I spent several hours this week working on my units which is the starting point of the conversation.
Before delving into my findings, let me state that I don't consider the noise of these units an issue. The only time I have an issue with locomotive noise is bearing squeal from poor lubrication.
My experience so far is that there are two plastic parts prone to failure: the drive gear attached to the motor and the universal driver that connects to the jack shafts that drives the axles on either truck. In the photo, there are two universal drives show, one laying loose on the mat and the other connected to the share on the truck.
It doesn't take much to notice that the crack in the universal driver laying on the mat, and this one is from the unassembled/unused kit. The problem with the drive gear is cracking as well.
I've superglued and clamped these parts with no success. After a few minutes of successful running, the glue fails, slipping occurs followed by complete failure. My next step will be a different adhesive.
In my other post, I copied the following from the Northwest Short Line website:
MDC CLIMAX/BOXCAB DIESEL
The noisy gearing on these locomotives is not economically
upgradeable. See NWSL Stanton Drive #39279-4 for the
Boxcab/Climax or #39213-4 for the MDC RS-3.
Unfortunately, I did not explain my reason for this, but it wasn't in reference to the noise. My reason was that if Northwest Short Line was not making parts for this, there is likely not an alternate source for parts. From what I've witnessed with cracked parts in an unassembled kit, buying donor units will result in a larger accumulation of non-running (but gorgeous) locomotives. Actually, this is not quite accurate. My options are either find a successful method of repairing the cracks or installing Bachmann 44-ton chassis.
In the Lewisville thread, I mentioned that I was planning on replacing the chassis with the Bachmann chassis, but after spending some time with these units I am fighting to get them running with the native drive trains. Other than cost, the reason is performance. I don't have a large layout. These units will run at 5 volts and pull 3 non-modified Tyco cars up a 3% grade without a noticeable slowing. It takes about 4 minutes to complete the loop. For comparison, a Bachmann Spectrum will also run at 5 volts, handles the grade ok, but completes the loop in one and a half minutes.
More to come when progress is made. Comments and suggestions are welcome.